The LS1016 is an updated 10 "dual bevel slider with some notable improvements over the venerable model LS1013.
Makita has tip-wheel drive now have intermediate reduction gears, traveling motor housing of the saw blade arbor higher than 1013, and also reduces the blade speed down to 3200 rpm. Because of the higher motor placement gives the critical right angle bevel (45 degree) cuts a 11.16 "high boards, an improvement over the 1 1 / 4" for the LS1013. The left 45 Bevel also increases with 2 3 / 8 ". I like to set up a managed double bevel latch makes it easy to use, no matter which side of I approaching this check (behind the saw) from.
Most competitors seem to hang on a belt moving so that the engine away from the arbor to allow dual aspect. This is my second Makita dual tapered knob, and both have had good power and torque to cut through all the hard and soft wood and timber handling, which sometimes have internal tension tie in the newspaper (the only time I really notice the full use of torque from someone so .) Makita is Bevel and spur gear train provides a heartbeat and do it while a last blade speed of 3200 rpm. In 1013 was 3700 rpm, all of the competitive situation saws seem to have cut rates for 4700 through 5200 rpm. I do not know if the higher spped is to reduce stress on the belt, but it certainly increases the screaming of a high speed blade both spun up and cut wood. For a 10 inch this is my quietest seen yet. Also worth mentioning is that the soft starter is so effective, I can find hardly any recoil when it starts the engine at full speed ready to cut without causing any wait on my side.
In 1013 had a passive spring loaded tension to zero degree tilt, while this model has a stop latch manually with a push button to pop by when you move into a legal aspect. Unfortunately, this internal latch broke on the first of two saws are delivered to me. I think it took a drop during transport, causing internal injuries. Although I preferred the earlier relaxation of speed, the system works well for me. I note that 45 left and right end are tough characters that are adjustable with set screws. If you are really pressed to do so, you may fear as much as 47 degrees Celsius in either direction, but with a loss of STOP mode. For each plate baseboard miter as high as 4 inches or so, you can only use the miter to cut a few corners of the room that is narrower than 90 degrees, however, before being forced to cut on the flat instead of the fence.
At the miter, it is 60 degrees to the right, which is good (I'm away, why anyone would MFG saw one that goes to 57 degrees ...) This also goes back 52nd Now I'm wondering why none of the producers will give me the ability to go 60 degrees to the left. For that saw the table would increase the base size is not more than 2 1 / 4 "in width left of center and probably add 2 pounds of weight. I would pay for the extra aluminum and even put up with the extra 2 inches of the truck and definitely make room for it in my workshop. (I am a general contractor, build houses and build fine furniture and custom cabinets in both my own sites and on-site.)
The relaxation of the miter settings are clear and miter lock seems to be very tight.
I have not met a miter saw, but it is super effective for dust control, it can not excel at either. (For use in my shop, my miter saw table area has a back plate, with a large bucket for a 4 "dust system on the one hand and a small fan spray of lead dust on the scoop from the opposite side.)
The biggest concern has been the linear bearings on the top set of runners. As the first reviewer noticed these layers are very tough at first. I have seen many other users have noticed this in several wood and contracting arenas (my review and writing is within a few weeks of this product into the street). I now use the second of these saws sent to me. At first it seemed roughness layer has been broken in 90% (about one week of use) and is almost smooth. The other replacements have been in use now for 4 days and is slowly becoming smoother in operation. Only time will tell if it is completely smooth. It seems a little odd that Makita could do the bottom set of linear bearings silky smooth and the top is (or at least started) terrible (maybe it's a double linear for the bottom bars). Why it is designed with two rails (top and bottom) and two sets of linear bearings, I have not completely melted. What I will note is that the operational 1013 single set "of" transport rails requires a clear desk space behind the saw when working in the field. This 1016 is more forgiving in a tight job.
My second remark is poorly done documentation. Illustrations are small and poorly marked and does not match the text well. Language is finished with the worst combination of English second language, not a technical writer, as far as I can interpret. Yes I know that Makita sales have slid 15% in the current economy, but for a 300 billion yen company, what about a thousand dollars to have a good technical English writer of the manual! I do not expect a guide on how to do woodworking, but I would not wonder which part refers to the adjustments or to use the saw.
I would also like to see Makita include side extensions. The holes of what is processed in the base, but I can not find that I can buy them. I would gladly pay a few dollars more to get them to enter or at least they should be available for sale. There are occasions when those few extra inches of support appreciated but I can not justify getting a full miter saw stand for the job.
Quality control (other than the rough upper linear bearings) are great. Working in turn table and the table side wings are flat and smooth. I miss the big record player for 1013, and the support it provides for a wider forum, but I guess a small record player was a need for a broader setting miter angle. The new fences are also welcome to offer significantly greater support on both sides of the wing than in 1013, and appears to be a tougher stance than the "flip-over" high close support of the vertical aspects (I've had two of the cover fence on the previous Saw breaks sudden capture of the wood, while my team has had them on the ground). The sliding upper fence is a good solution to include both high vertical support and clearance for bevel cuts.
Although the quality, I had come close to ordering a deep blue so, but had seen a reviewer note on adjusting arbor for sliding shaft. Of the two 1016 have been delivered to me, the first was out of sync a little tiny hairs (this is one which I suppose was a decrease in transit), the other is almost dead. If you make a plunge cut on the back of the sliding travel and make a separate second input on the front of gliding flight (not the picture looked, while in the woods, but make two separate crashes) into two separate parts must be dead adjustment. If you see a shift in the saw Kerff means that the blade arbor is out of sync and the blade can not slip or trip straight into the kerf and you will be binding when the slides and wavy cuts, burnt edges. . . etc. I do not believe that all manufacturers make this adjustable, so it's either true or it is a lemon. BTW the supplied ATB saw blade is fantastic, I had ordered a neg rake Freud to put on this saw, but I will wait until the plant needs to be sharpened knife.
All in all, I like this new version from Makita, and expects to serve me and I hope that the unevenness of the upper linear completely disappear soon.
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